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Classical
Nails
Q
What is the
most effective nail shape for classical guitar playing?
Andrew
McQueen
Manchester, England
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A
Unfortunately,
there is no simple answer. Many variables need to be considered
when deciding on a nail shape, including the length and shape
of your fingers, the thickness and curvature of your nails
(whether you have a "hooked" or unusually shaped nail), how
you sit and position your hands while playing—you get
the idea. Nonetheless, some general guidelines may be helpful.
In classical playing, a "good" tone (a solid, punchy sound
with enough brilliance on the top to provide clarity) is produced
by a stroke in which the fingertip and nail are both involved.
Consider a stroke in sequence: the flesh of the finger initially
contacts the string, pressure is applied, the string then
meets the fingernail, and finally, the stroke is executed
with the string traveling across the breadth of the fingertip
(left to right) in contact with flesh and nail.
Generally speaking,
you want enough nail to help tone production, but not so much
nail that it interferes with a smooth stroke. Many players
choose to shape their nails in a gentle slope (or ramp) rising
from left to right as you look at the back of the hand. Some
players prefer a flat nail shape with no slope whatsoever.
The least common approach is a reverse ramp, with the left
side of the nail sloping down to the right. This shape removes
virtually all resistance between the string and nail that
you might encounter with the former two shapes and gives the
sensation of the string slipping off the finger. Try experimenting
with all three shapes while taking the following steps: observe
how you are executing the stroke, listen closely to the sound
you produce, and determine which shape feels the most comfortable.
Doing so, you should be able to discover which shape works
best for you, striking a balance between ease of execution
and a good sound.
—Patrick
Francis
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Many
players choose to shape their nails in a gentle slope.
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Fret
Wire Alloys
Q
Are 12 percent
and 18 percent the only two nickel-silver alloy formulas used to
make fret wire?
Marc
Elkins
Peoria, Illinois
A
These are indeed
the two most commonly used fret wire formulas, and because it is
harder, 18 percent is almost always used for steel-string guitars.
Nickel silver, also known as German silver, actually has no silver
in it; it is an alloy of mostly copper and nickel and has been used
in optical and scientific instrument making as well as for strong
and/or less-expensive parts in jewelry. It is commonly used for
belt buckles and was used by National for its all-metal guitars.
It's also the preferred cover material for humbucking pickups. There
are some alternatives: brass fret wire was commonly used on inexpensive
instruments, stainless-steel frets are starting to appear on the
market, and I am working with a company that has developed superhard
and highly polished ceramic frets. There are rumblings from Europe
that alloys containing nickel are being phased out for uses where
they come in contact with human skin, because a surprising percentage
of the population is sensitive to nickel exposure. A Google search
for "nickel sensitivity" is an eye-opener.
—Rick
Turner
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Buyer
Beware
Q
I was considering
buying an Artesano model 60 nylon-string guitar sight unseen but
decided against it. The instrument was reportedly handmade in 1987
by Juan Orozco, but I couldn't get a feel for this particular guitar's
quality. Did I make a mistake by passing on it?
Mark
Stearman
Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
A
Although this
may indeed be a wonderful instrument, you were probably wise to
decide against buying it sight unseen. No matter what its pedigree,
there's no way to tell if any guitar is right for you without actually
playing it. The feel of the neck and the way the top responds to
your right hand will, in the end, matter a lot more to you than
who made it or what it's made of. This is why reputable dealers
of fine guitars are always willing to sell an instrument on approval,
providing you with adequate time to determine if a particular instrument
is right for you. If you're thinking of buying a guitar from a private
party, you should be able to work it out so they hold your payment
while you hold their guitar, depositing your check only after you've
decided to buy the guitar or returning it when you've returned the
guitar in the same condition in which you received it. Some online
auction services will provide a third party to hold your funds until
the deal is final. As you can imagine, there's a certain amount
of trust and extra shipping charges involved in this kind of arrangement,
but if it gets you a guitar that is right for you, it's worth it.
—Stephen
Dick
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Excerpted from
Acoustic Guitar magazine,
January
2003, No. 133.
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