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Got a Date?
How to identify and appraise a guitar.

By Teja Gerken

There are many reasons for determining the precise age of your used
guitar. The most important one is probably pricing the instrument appropriately
when you’re looking to sell it. Prices for certain vintage models vary
by thousands of dollars depending on whether it’s a 1963, for example,
or a 1964. You’ll also need to know exactly what your guitar is worth
for insurance purposes.


One of the most valuable and often overlooked resources to help you
identify and appraise guitars is your local used instrument dealer.
It’s so important to establish a working relationship with these folks.
While it may be tempting to call every store in the area in order to
save a few dollars when you’re shopping for something, developing a
loyalty to one or two shops pays off when you need service that goes
beyond a simple purchase. While most shops charge a fee for an official
appraisal, it may take an experienced retailer only a second to realize
that your old Epiphone is actually a Nova 390, produced from 1976 to
1980 in the company’s short-lived Japanese factory. The shop employee
may be glad to look up the approximate value of your ax in a book and
give you an opinion about what it’s worth. But if you randomly drop
by a store that you’ve never been to before and ask for this kind of
help, they might not take the time to look carefully at what you’ve
got.


LEARNING THE HISTORY


If you want to educate yourself to identify guitars, the first step
is to become familiar with the histories of some of the larger companies.
In recent years, more and more books providing information on the major
guitar manufacturers have become available, and they’re a great place
to start. There are some basic questions to ask. When did the company
start building guitars? Where were the guitars manufactured? Did the
company move in the course of its existence, and did it move its production
overseas? Did the model in question change drastically during the years
of production? For example, Gibson’s J-200 started out with rosewood
back and sides and fairly standard X-bracing in the late 1930s. It was
changed to maple back and sides (except for a few rosewood examples)
and a double-X bracing pattern in the ’50s. Yet another double-X bracing
pattern was used during the ’70s, and then a more Martin-like scalloped
X-bracing was adopted when the model was reintroduced in the late ’80s.
These are all differences that would be difficult for the uneducated
eye to notice, yet they drastically affect the guitar’s sound and value.


At the very least, these books will identify the time period during
which the guitar in question was produced, basic information that will,
for example, keep you from paying a premium for a "1960s Martin HD-28"
(you’ll know that this model wasn’t introduced until 1976). Sometimes
you can narrow down even further the time period in which your guitar
was built because of a certain distinguishing feature. For example,
a volute or scroll at the back of a Gibson headstock usually indicates
that the instrument was built between 1974 and 1981 (although some appeared
as early as 1969).


Another thing that the trained eye will immediately be able to pick
up on is whether an instrument was built in the U.S. or imported from


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This article also appears in Acoustic Guitar, Issue #70



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